Cremation of the Balinese

For a change I woke up to the birds signing, not the roosters! I slept very well in my new pad. This place is so peaceful and beautiful. What a change from the busy place of Ubud. I spend the day writing at the beach, I know I have AC now, but why would I stay indoors, when I am fortunate enough to be in the tropics. I have the beach all to myself, comfortable chair with a good table and straw roof. The water did return to its normal level, but the beach is still a deception. Again too much garbage washes on the shore. Beside the garbage tons of weed ends u on the beach and the hotel do not sweep it. The water is also full of seaweed. I went for a walk on the beach, I didn’t go too far. Being alone I have no one to apply sunscreen on my back and shoulders. There is a lot of water sports here. And the beach is not a true white sand beach. Everywhere it is advertise as a white sand beach, I can understand why it is white to them with so many black sand beaches, but it is more like a pink golden color. It’s a coarse sand. Some part of the beach are impossible to walk, you sink so deep into the sand, it feels like quick sand, but I never experience quick sand so I am not sure. I am amazed how fast the day went by. Then I lift my eyes from my laptop and the water has recess without me noticing. I go in the room to grab my camera but I had to return to bring it back. Trying to look through the lens I kept loosing balance, and I was wondering what was going on with me, I have been drinking only water since Nyepi. The water had not completely withdraw and the attraction is so strong that you can’t stand still, you feel the ocean pulling you. As I never been to the Bay of Fundy, I have never experienced a tide under my feet. I actually like this phenomena. I can walk on the sand far away, near where the waves are breaking, at least a mile walk. The water is so warm here, it does not shock you, when you enter, no acclimatization is needed it. The water is probably at the same temperature as my body, it is so hot. If you want to cool down, you go take a cold shower! Even far away where the waves are, it is warm. You can’t really stand in the water, waiting for the waves to hit you, you feel being pulled forward. Even bending down to look at sea shells in the water, I kept losing my balance, fortunately I have put the camera away. I was lucky to found some rare sea shell and some red coral. Highly prized and prohibited to take, while its alive. Luckily these are pieces that have been broke off by the ocean. This cute little Balinese boy, no older than four years old, was throwing the star fish back into the water, as some of them get stuck on dry sand when the water recess. I thought this was really neat, even that young, they respect nature. His mother didn’t seem to worry he was so far away alone in the water. The sun was coming down and I know what they mean by there is no sunset; you see the sun coming down only to a certain point, as the sunset is on the other side. I had to hurry back, I didn’t notice the sun going down and its coming down fast. Going out for diner it easy here, I just cross the street and you have many choices to pick from.
As promise, I will explain the cremation of Balinese, their last journey. They believe they only finished a cycle of life and will come back for another cycle. They believe, the human body is made of the five elements; earth, fire, air, water, and light. Cremation, allows the spirit of the decease to leave and to be removed from his now useless envelope.
Cremation here is a lavish affair. Impressive and spectacular, with an astronomical bill, only high rank people, like Brahma priests, master of rites and descendants of the Royal Family, who is no longer in power but highly respected by the Balinese, are entitled to individual cremation. For other Balinese the ceremony is collective. If someone dies they are buried into the cemetery and will be dug up for the collective cremation usually every three or 5 years at the maximum. A collective cremation, consist of people from the same village. The date of the ceremony is decided by the priest, for a favorable day accordingly to their calendar. Before the body is buried, a piece of metal is inserted in their mouth to ensure they will have solid and good teeth in their future life. They cover the eyes with mirrors for future bright eyes and the eyebrows with a leaf of intaran to be attractive in their future. Maybe that is the secret to why all Balinese look good, either it’s a women or men, they have a beauty that is hard to describe. Before the cremation, three weeks prior to the ceremony, all men of the village must dedicate two hours of their time on a daily basis to help with the preparation. The sarcophagus and the tower must be built. The sarcophagus have different shapes, according to their clans; bull, lion or fish. The sarcophagus will hold the decease and will be set on fire. If the body has not been buried, the body is placed in the tower. If it has already been buried they place a portrait or a photo of the decease on top of the tower and collect their remains at the graveyard. On the day set by the priest, the entire village dressed in ceremonial outfits, and walk to the ceremony. Women walk ahead, carrying their offerings on their heads followed by the empty sarcophagus, carried by men, and then the tower. The orchestra closes the procession playing and singing. Once there, if the cremation is collective all the towers and sarcophagus are placed next to each other. Each family unearths the remains of the body, wraps them in a white cloth and puts them down on a bamboo base until a drum gives the signal. At the signal the bodies are placed inside the sarcophagus along with offering and portraits of the dead sprinkle with holy water. A metal container is at the bottom, in order to collect the ashes. After they have collected the ashes, on the same day, they must carried and spread the ashes to the sea of to a river that ends up in the sea. As they believe water is the beginning to every life.
Twelve or Forty-two days after the cremation, depending of the region, a ceremony called Nyekhas is organized. During this ceremony they place a portrait of the decease in a new tower then burn it too. This way, their spirit, finally freed from their body, will take its place in the family temple, among the ancestors.
Cremation are like a playful riot, it is believed a show of grief disturbs the spirit of the deceased and prevents it from leaving the body. Arak, the national drink (palm liquor) flows freely at these events, fueling the bearers who must twist the funeral tower at each crossroads in order to shake of any recalcitrant demons. The tower and the sarcophagus is on the same bamboo structure they put the OGOH-OGOH on, like a grid, with a man in each square of the grid. The tower is also called a pyre, the higher the rank the higher the tower is. Strange as it seems it is in their cremation ceremony that Balinese have their greatest fun!
The cremation I witness was a beautiful bull. Balinese are very talented artist. Everything they touch is beautiful. They are master at intricate decorations.

Benoa and the beach

I was a bit nervous going all that way without reservations, none of the hotels I e-mailed reply, and phone calls is not as easy as back home. Off course you can make calls from your room but its $3 a minute each call. Rather you make a 20 second call or 1 minute, it’s $3. It can add up pretty fast if you call a few hotels. When we arrived in Sanur, I don’t really like it, it is still too close to Kuta, extremely busy and noisy. Dewa tells me that he used to work in Nusa Dua and he could make a phone call to the hotel he used to work. So I told him that I was debating going there too, but on the map it seems far from the airport. Since it’s at the very tip of the island, the most southern part of Bali. He said, no it is much closer to the airport. He also mentioned Benoa. Benoa is the place the lovely couple from Nice had suggested I go there, she had given me the page from her book with photos, but the hotel never replyed to my request. They had spoked highly of Benoa saying it was very quiet and if that’s what I was looking for, I should go. After finding out that the hotel in Nusa Dua was over $100 a night, no breakfast included I said to Dewa, let’s go, I don’t even want to go visits the hotels on my list. They were beautiful hotels, but I can tell Sanur is not for me! As soon as we enter Benoa without knowing we are here, I said to my driver. I like it here, what’s the name? Benoa. All right this is where I am staying. It is close to the airport, we drove by, and the beach is beautiful just from seeing it from the road. We passed a name I recognized, having looked at everything about Bali, I know the name of the two most exclusive hotels in Bali, and rank among the first 10 in the world. If they are located in this area, it means it’s a good place. We stop at a hotel, Dewa says it’s a nice place and ask me if I want to look, of course we kept driving by the five stars, I know I can’t afford them! The place he suggested does not look like much from the parking. They shows me a room that I immediately loved! I don’t need to see any other place this is perfect. I can see the beach from my balcony, it is very private, and each room is a small bungalow, all sitting in an impeccable manicure garden. My balcony is very private surrounding by stunning bird of the paradise! Beautiful pool and the beach a few steps away. The room is also perfect for working; It is the best chair I‘ve had so far! A nice bathroom with a clean comfortable tub, mini bar, air conditioning and a TV! No insects, the place is very clean compare to Ubud and no insects crawling around. The room smells good. A smell not enhance by fragrance. This will be strange to have a tv, I have not miss it, at all, but I feel like I have been cut off from the rest of the world. People are talking Obama and I have no clue what is going on, he is supposed to arrive in Denpasar the day before I leave, but apparently he cancel but no one knows why. Someone else told me the Macchu Pichu has been closed for over a month. Last time this happened to me, Pavoretti had died and I only found out 3 months after. I was in shock I never heard about it, but I was away for a month without tv again.
And today again, I thought I wouldn’t have anything exciting to talk about, but the island of gods, always blesses me with something! I was fortunate enough to see a rare event happening, and one that is even more symbolic than Nyepi. I had heard so many things about their cremation, the equivalent for the Western world is Funeral. Last year in Ubud, some tourists were very fortunate to see the cremation of a member of the Royal family and that is even more grandiose. A heafty bill of billions of rupies, I was told. To transport the tower into the street, 500 mens were needed it. And I will explain furthermore, on the next blog, but the tower is not the only element transported. So, as we are leaving Ubud, we need to take a street that leads to the main road to Kuta area. The street is closed, so we have to find another street, to complicate matters, many of the streets here are one way. I see a beautiful procession and Dewa says, Cremation. Are you serious? Yes, cremation, you want to see? What a question. I get off the car and ran to the next street, it was quite far away, I arrive soak and wet, but I am not the only one, many tourist ran in order to get a few shots and to witness one of the happiness moment of Balinese life. They party even more than the day before Nyepi. As I mention on my blog, I did not see anyone with a drink on that day, and it was pretty low key compare to our New Years eye. A cremation is the only time, everyone drinks and they must have a good time. Nobody must cry. I can see even the women’s must off had a drink as well, they are smiling so much, I should say laughing, not smiling! I had already known the basic of this ceremony, but it is so unique, to actually see it happen, it really gives you a complete understanding of the whole concept. As much as there is flower s everywhere in this country, in every step of restaurants, offerings, statues, there is no flowers for the cremation. The whole thing looks to the eyes of a Westerner like a parade. If you didn’t know you might think it is a celebration of some kind, you would certainly not think it’s a funeral. First of all there is no casket. At the beginning of the procession a few men carry some kind of decoration, much further; a few mens are carrying something that looks like a pedestal, all decorated with gold material and beautiful details, that only Balinese know how to do. Than much further, a man that gives the signal to either stop or move ahead. They alternate, walking to running than to a complete stop. I supposed the rhytm is to allow the carriers to catch up their breath. The next podium is a huge bull, carried by about 20-30 men. The bull is bigger than the one standing on Wall Street in New York. A man on each side of the bull is standing. Further down 30-40 man carry the tower, followed by the bells, the musicians and the guess and curious!
Once settle in Benoa, I went across the street to have lunch it is pass 4pm my breakfast is pretty far. I noticed right away, a gentle breeze is felt! Ah! Some fresh air, less humidity, still very hot but less heavy on the chest! I have a really nice green Papaya soup. I want a light lunch I am dying to swim in the ocean.
And I go put the gear on, hunt for a beach towel and off to the beach! Both my arm drop when I go to the beach. This was a shock, A very old German guy standing by the beach saw my reaction and had a good laugh, he said” arrtomorrow you srwim” . Buy the way this hotel is all retired Germans, and they are nice with me, they all say hi to me in German, all I can say is sorry ni speaking German, I am sure by the end of the three days, I will know how to say hi, it just sound like the noise your about to make when you spit, reahrrr! The old man said tomorrow you swim, it took my little while to understood what he said! It is a good thing I didn’t go see the beach when I visited the room, because I would off said, not here. The beach was gone, at first I was devastated, but when the German guy showed me with his hands I understood that it is the low tide at the moment. So I went back grab my camera and went into this amazing natural phenomena, for exploration. First it was like crossing a marsh, with small soft grass, than it looked like sand dunes, than enough water to puddle. For about 40 minutes you walk and the water is to your ankle, than it the deep ocean with a wave breaker. It was amazing opportunity to see things and capture them on film, sea lettuce, hundreds of star fish, probably four different species of starfish, and I have never encountered any of them before. I saw a few rare things I don’t even know their name. It was fascinating, the water was so warm I had to sit in it and let my legs relax, I would off miss all that if I would off seen the beach, because my first thought would off been, there is no beach here. Apparently the beach is a faitful one and will be back tomorrow morning. Haven seen its bottom, I know it is clean.
The place where I am staying is so beautiful, so private, it almost feels like I am home. I wish my husband was here to see this, to see this beauty and this atmosphere. Three more days...

Today is my very last day in Ubud and still so much to see!I am sad I didn't get to visit the artisanal villages Sang Made wanted to show me,specially the gold and silver craftsmith. He had also found me a cock fight that I could attend, I am really sad I will miss that. It is another part of their traditions I wish had the chance to witness.Not enough time. There is still a few restaurants I wanted to try, notably I just find out, just up the road from where I am staying, there’s a good restaurant with a view on the paddy fields, who serves all organic food. I could off gone tonight but I had to pack and write, instead I went up the road, to buy my last can of cat food for my poor Bamboo, who was faithfully waiting for my return from Lovina, not far from my room. I now, have to leave him for good. I hope the gods will take care of him. I think the staff as gotten used to him and they will probably keep him. One admitted to me, that he had given it sausage while I was gone. At the small restaurant, I didn’t ask how much, just if they had take out. She said yes, I told her the three choices I wanted. Snake beans, corn fritters and vegetable noodles. She wrapped everything in a brown wax paper and stapled it, that is my take out container! You eat in it as well it is fully biodegradable. Very little packaging and no pollution, also a lot less cost for the operator of a food business. I had to make her repeat when she told me how much; the cost for my meal was $1! And it was very good. Sadly I discovered here, that MSG is also everywhere and I sure would like to find out how this was introduce to them, because I know every family cooks with it. When we went to the market with my cooking class, we bought our ingredient at a stand, while she is explaining me a few things, people come by and buy this bag with white crystals, I know salt enough to know this wasn’t salt so I ask her, what was that white bag every- one was buying. She said MSG . I was shock, MSG who ever thought them to use that in their great food! Probably some government brainwash about preservative, since they only cook once a day. Also here, a few things are subsidize if you live by the rules set by the government For instance the rice. The government is the one asking them to use chemicals for faster and more frequent crops. If they don’t used the chemicals, there is a catch 22, just like they first subsidized the seeds for rice. Instead of keeping some rice to replant, an incentive program was in place that they buy the seeds. Farmers didn’t know that humans could manipulated seeds, the seeds they were buying were GMO (genetically modified) if you use the seeds from that crop it does not grow again, it is design for a single crop, so farmers keeps buying seeds. The seed company ,were also allowed to patent the seeds since it is not found in the nature this way. Many farmers didn’t keep seeds from previous crops when the GMO’s arrived, so now, they all have to buy seeds for their rice. And yesterday I was told people don’t bath so much in the rivers because it gives them itchy skin, for the first time ever, they are starting to have diabetes, which here they call the rich disease. All, from commercial food ,entering the doors of Bali. Funny enough I found a MSG free diner tonight, and yesterday, I had completed my chapter “Be aware” and MSG was a big part of it.
In town in did my few last errands, buying some ingredients for Balinese dishes, a few good books that I know I will not be able to find in Canada, otherwise I would wait, books can add to luggage weight pretty quickly. Mailed my last post card and this was an interesting stop. I ask the young girl for 2 stamps for Canada, than I ask her if she could show me more stamps. She didn’t understand, so I pointed to her book and ask her to see the stamps. First page are the ones she just gave me, no, no next page please, yes give me one of those. Then she says, but not the same price, it’s ok I said, she gives me the stamp but takes back one stamp from before, I said no this one is not for Canada. She looks at me, and I say,for collection ,not to mail. I ask her more stamp and she ask again for where, I said, next page please. I ask for that stamp and I said how much, she gave me my total, on the last stamp she gave me one of those looks like I was a lunatic or crazy person, you want stamp but not too mail? Collection means nothing to her, she does not know that as Westerners we have money to waste on things that we will never use, or even worst spend money on a collectable item with great expense, which would feed them for a whole year! I knew there was more stamps in the book, but my husband will have to be happy just with these two stamps for his collection. I was near causing a riot there, as every one behind started to talk and look over the counter and wondering who’is the cocoo buying stamps that will never be mailed.
I went to watch a movie at the Rendez vous doux café, own by French people, it is a café library style. You can buy all kinds of used book and they have a giant screen. Everyday there is a screening of “ Bali 1930”, filmed by the anthropologist Miguel Covarrubias. Although, black and white and silent, it is a magnificent film. Back in the 30’ the women were bare breast, the young girls too. The film shows that very little has changed since. Their food was prepared the same way, the men wore the same cute scarf around their heads, and the dances were very similar. The Temples were exactly as you see them today. You can also see the Temple of Uluwatu, which is a very popular tourist `attraction; the Temple sits on a tiny island, mainly rock, in the ocean, apparently guarded by poisonous snakes. I am not sure if there is many left, just by looking at all the purses and boots you can buy here! Most of the beautiful “post card rice paddies you see, are already in the film. This means they have been standing there for at least this long, back in the 30’s this was no easy task to build the terraces. At some point in the film the women are wearing a sarung around their breast. When I return, the porter knew I went there, because I couldn’t find the place before and he told me where it was. I asked him, he said it was around 1940 that the Balinese women started to cover their breasts. The screening is free, and well worth it.
I had a French onion soup, I wasn’t expecting too much of an onion soup in Bali, but the broth was from a French cook for sure. The cheese was very different , it didn’t sit on a crouton and was not “gratine” but some melted cheese was in the bouillon, I could not recognize the taste of that cheese. But the soup was good. There is a lot of French restaurants here, as many French people live here. They are called the “expats”. They have been here for a long time and are part of the foundation that made Bali such a good tourism destination. Balinese admit they only know how to farm, business is not part of their skills. Bali is what it is today because foreigners help in a big way. Most of the shops here are either own by Asians (mostly Japanese), Australians, French and a few Americans. As I read the French paper this morning, they even have quite the repertoire of school selections for their kids, from kinder garden to Natural and Eco friendly school to High End Private schools. If you want to buy a house in Bali, you can find a long list of professionals that can help with the legal expertise and advises, most of them are French. So I would have no problem!
Did a few last photo shots, while I was down at the spa, I saw the lady that did my massage, she said hi and she remembered me very well and even told me what massage I had, she was wondering why I didn’t come back, I told her I was here to work, and I had such a bad sunburn, massage was out of the question for awhile. I told her she had an amazing memory, as she seen many people since. Today is the day I could off had another massage, but I have no money left, I need to keep what I have left for my accommodation and food. Also, going to the beach is more costly, the rooms are not as cheap as here. I had a change of heart and decided to go to Sanur. Seminyak is too busy and apparently too many single people, for someone that is not looking for company! Also Seminyak being on the west coast has the beautiful sunset, I am going to the East coast which is beautiful sunrise, It just seems to be fitting my life now, to be attracted by the sunrise rather than the sunset. Not to mention, sunsets are far too romantic for someone who greatly misses the love of her life! I will keep Seminyak for when I return with my husband! Sanur is known as the “snooze” place! Meaning; older people. It suits me fine to be in that category. I am glad I was made aware of this, before actually being there. And it is funny, at the same time I realized why I could never stay at the other place I was supposed to stay in Ubud. The room was very nice, it had windows all around it, but it was right next to the pool, I mean, 5 steps and you’re in the water, so ever one would see me all the time sitting on the balcony, thinking I am lonely and probably need company. I even went back twice and couldn’t decide to stay there, I didn’t know why. Now I know why, because every time I went, all I could see were single guys, every time I walked by, as it is on Monkey forest road, I could see only men’s walking out of there. And they all looked lik,e the kind of men’s that have no string attaches, with lots of bugs, if you know what I mean. The ones that never resolves any issues they had in life and always blames the others. I am glad now, I have the answer, my instinct knew and I followed, but I didn’t know the logic behind. Now I feel much better, I was truly feeling guilty for not staying there, because it was really nice for the price, I could off save lots of money but I rather have paid more and be left alone, with no one feeling I might be lonely! Every one guarantees me that I will have sea breeze in Sanur. I can’t wait to see the golden sand, walk on flat grounds and feel the breeze on my body. It is 11pm here and my thermometer on my clock says 82 degree, that is without the humidity factor!
Again today I witness the power of the nature, somehow there was a dead tiny scorpio on my floor in my room, yes, I was pretty discussed myself. I have no idea who kill it. In the evening the staff always come to your roam and prepare your bed, close the curtains, change the mosquito coil and open the lights. Many one step on it and didn’t know or maybe kill it but left it there. I just know it wasn’t there when I left the room. The tiny aunt that live here, seem to have a highway from the balcony directly to my bathroom and underneath the sink they probably have an access outside the wall and their nest not far behind. One night I had kill three huge aunts, who usually never came in, I had left them on the floor and when I return they were gone, I could tell the staff I not been in my room either and I thought that was strange! Now I know what happen. The aunts were carrying this scorpion, all the way to the bathroom and than I thought, there is no way they can go up the wall, well did they, many time falling right back down, but they manage to carry their heavy load, 500 times bigger than them to their nest. Now, I know what happen to the aunts I had killed.

Eco tour to Mt.Batur

This morning I was picked up by a small van to go biking. I am the last one being pick up and the mini-van is full. I can feel already I am in a good group. Our guide speaks good English and Dutch. He tells us a few interesting things. We had a good laugh when he talk about his childhood on a farm in Bali, the magic box came before the electricity in 1984. Everybody seems to know what was a magic box, I didn’t, so I asked, turns out no one knew what he meant, since they taught he was talking about the x box! Magic box was tv! Magic, because they still don’t understand how come there is live image there! The first one they had run on batteries. So electricity is a fairly recent modern change for Bali. Sanur,Ubud and Kuta were among the first to have electricity back in the 70”s. He tells us how he up end being a guide and that he is happy and married. We had a good laugh because he talks about how his wife didn’t get along with his mother, so he sent his wife to school, and now she is a teacher and very happy. She does not have to spend so many hours in the compound with her mother in law. Often a compound can have around 40 people living in it. With one kitchen, here they cook once a day only and that’s it's for the entire day. If you only saw how their kitchen are, you would want to cook only once a day. That’s one thing I must say, I could live the way they do, with raising animals, growing all my food, hunting for wood, harvest and all, but I would need a kitchen little more complete with more light and a sink. If they would saw our Western kitchen, they would not believe it, as the kitchens in North America are the center of every home, usually one that cost more than any other room in the house and in second are the fancy bathrooms, another room they would not recognized! In the bus we have a guy that works for KLM and from Holland. He is really funny, he decided to come to Bali last Friday and arrived here just a couple of days ago. A mother and her sister, from Finland visiting her daughter studying in Denpasar, she is learning Indonesian and business. Indonesian is her 7th language! She is a very pretty girl and very nice, we had some good conversation, like me, she eats well, looks for organic only, does Yoga and she told me David Wolf was here a couple of weeks ago! She has been in Bali for over three months, I wouldn’t be surprise she never leaves the island! The two girls in the back are from Sydney Australia, they are really funny to, also they have a different accent from the girl beside me, who is from Perth, every word she says I don’t get right away! But she is a sweetheart, she is here with her parents, they wouldn’t do the bike tour. We had great conversation and I learned a lot about Australians. I didn’t understand why they were so many here, as they have a beautiful country too, full of beautiful beaches for surfing or for sunbathing, plenty of sun and not as humid as it is here. For them it is cheaper to flight here for a holiday, rather than taking a holiday in Australia! She did admit that they have a bad reputation, because the young Australians, party hard, they mistreat the Balinese, they are rowdy and rude. She says not all Australians are like that, is just that those who are like that, all go to Kuta. I was explain that KUTA in Indonesian means K=KOTA(City), U=UNTUK(For), T=TAMU(guest), A=Australia, City of for the guest of Australia! We start our day with as breakfast at the Mountain View restaurant, who is perch on the side of the mountain, overlooking at a spectacular view of Mt Batur, and its crater. Mt Batur last explosion was in 1963, it is still an active volcano, with only faint traces of smoke. At the bottom of the volcano, is lake Batur, the view is spectacular. You can see the black lava, which nothing grows on it, not even moss. It imparts a more dramatic landscape. The breakfast is also very good, we are sitting on the edge of the cliff, with a beautiful view and magnificent sun! On the way here, I also experienced another stunning view, we made a stop to one of the most beautiful rice terrace I ever seen! I saw a lot of beautiful rice terrace, but I was starting to wonder, where were those on the post card?! Today I stand in front of the very one that is featured in many post card. It is stunning, with its shades of green. My photos will not be spectacular, as it was early in the morning and the sun was too bright! I have the camera to do it, but not the skills! I am surprise to find out, we are stopping at the LUWAX coffee place. I had plan to go there another day with Sang Made. I booked the Eco Tour cycling tour, because everyone I met said it was the only one to do, even the lonely planet, but there was no brochure at my hotel, so I had to find their number on internet and just reserve. I didn’t know all we were supposed to do. Before we saw the coffee, we walk through the organic gardens, I had learn a lot from Sang Made, but there is always something new to learn everywhere you go. I saw a tomatillo tree, it looks like a small plum tomato but taste like the Guava and a bit of tomatoes. Tomatillo is great in salsa, but here many people eat it just like that. Than we saw the animals that eats the coffee berries. Than they collect the excrements all over the forest.It looks more like a ferret than a fox. It is a timid animal, apparently it is a smelly one, so it really sounds like a ferret, but here they call it a civet. I am sure it is in the same category.A young lady who separates the male coffee from the female, sits patiently all day at the task. There is a lot less male coffee beans than females. They are highly prized by the coffee next to her is a man sitting beside the kitchen fire, who roast the coffee all day long. Sitting beside a fire all day long in this kind of heat must be very exhausting, he is roasting the coffee, which takes roughly half an hour with constant stirring. The coffee sits in a clay pan that looks like a wok.As for the Luwak coffee, Lukak is the name of the animal. The beans are rinse than wash, sun dried than roasted. I can’t believe it I did it, I ordered a cup of the Luwac coffee. Included in the tour we had a cup of each; Ginseng tea (different kind here, the one you eat the leaves) Ginger Tea, Hot chocolate, Bali coffee, Lemongrass Tea. The Luwax coffe was extra, $3 a cup. It actually comes with a small teapot of coffee. It’s a stronger coffee than the Bali coffee, not bitter at all, very smooth. I didn’t really enjoy my cup, here coffee is served without milk. If you want to have a degustation that is the proper way!The best was the hot chocolate made from the cacao on the farm. Each table was also supplied with rolling paper, pure tobacco and matches. This spice farm also grows organic tobacco, and they want you to try it. I asked my guide to roll a cigarette for me, the paper as no glue so you must hold it. The cigarette as a sweet taste, the paper is made of sugar cane. Very natural, but I only took a couple of puff, just to try it, it does taste much better, if anyone has doubt cigarettes are full of chemicals beside tobacco, have a cigarette of real tobacco. The tobacco does not even look like the loose tobacco sold in Canada. The taste is very different. Natural or not I got an instant headache, and one that kept getting worst, just from a couple of puffs! I haven’t had tobacco in a long time, it will be even longer before I try that again! I shared my coffee with the guide, I can only drink one cup,too much coffee would mean doing many pie stop! it would be a shame to waste such a rare coffee! After, we enter a shop, which at first sight, looked small, it was in fact huge. They sold all kinds of spices, pure essential oils and natural product. I bought organic coconut oil and essential oils that I can get in Canada, great for making perfume. The essential oils are made with rare flowers and one of my preferate is Lotus flower, a rare oil. I also got a few scrubs for my body . This was a really nice stop. I also asked a lot of questions about the oils, they are distilled with steam not alcohol, a sure sign of it's good quality. We hop back into the mini van, at the next stop our bikes await for us. They give us helmets and we all said; is that really mandatory? I probably had the worst mountain bike of all, squeaking everytime I push the pedals, but amazingly for three hours I barely had to pedal. Once my chain came off, right away the van behind us fix it. It is downhill the only time, rarely going up. We stop three time in between. Once to visit a family compound of 40 people, this was not a beautiful compound like Sang Made’s family, but we still learned more details. The life of Balinese is truly unique. I will keep these details for the last blogs. When you see an old person here, no one knows how old they are, as no records were kept! The next stop was at a Temple. I have seen many temples but this one is going under a very special celebration. Once per generation , approx. every fifty year, the Temple must be purified. It is a very costly celebration and the amount of preparations that goes into it is gigantic! I mean, you cannot understand, until you see the temporary shed, built with Bamboo. The shed contains all the offerings they have been handcrafting since December 19th 2009, everyday they are making new offerings, there are rows and rows of them, stacked on shelfs 4 storey high! Today, they were making natural play dough, rolling in it in their hands and shaping the dough into all sorts of offerings. At least 20 women’s have been working at crafting these offerings daily since December. They have another two weeks or so to go. The Balinese think about everything when it comes to spirits. I saw this in every temple but just thought it was a decoration, it is a piece of bamboo, that's stands high and other pieces turn in the wind, making a nice hollow sound, all made from bamboo. The wind turbine, if I may call it that way, is actually a radar for the spirits, so they know how to find the Temple without getting lost! Pretty good. We make one last stop before we eat and we divide the group, at this point we have the choice, those who wish to do the last 45 minutes downhill and those that want to go uphill. I do not want to go uphill, it is too hot and my headache is pounding so bad, I feel like throwing up. So I take the easy ride. The three hours of biking were absolutely easy, beautiful scenery and I wish we could of stop to take pictures of these woods carvers. An entire village is busy every day carving doors, with intricate flowers and animals. The massive doors are carved so beautiful, there is not one inches of wood left uncarved! Than with the doors, the matching overhead. Than the mini van pick us up, gave us some fresh cold towel and water. The guide had everything possible for any illness in his little bag, so he gave me something for headache, I don’t recognize the name but the Australian girl said yes it is like Tylenol. I never take pills but at this point I must try something. In our $36 excursion is also included a really nice lunch. Actually I believe it is the best lunch I have had so far! In a very nice setting, in the middle of the rice fields. I wanted to take a picture of the buffet, again my chip is full. I had ask for vegetarian, and what we had was fantastic. Conversation around the table were great, every one talking to each other. The group that went up hill, arrive last and soaked! It was one of my best days along with the rafting. I am really lucky everytime, I am with a great group, we are a great group. I was looking at the other group from another company eating their lunch, no one was talking to each other. Also, this tour keeps their groups small, 6-8 maximum. The 7 of us, had a great time, we all exchange e-mails and as we drop everyone of, we had a good laugh, as the Dutch guy said, now I can go try my avocado face mask? In the shop at the coffee place, you didn’t hold your shopping basket, someone follows you everywhere with the basket. He had ask the girl what would be good for him and she had suggested avocado facial mask for his beautiful face! We had a great time, I am ready to go nap, my headache still there but I don’t feel as bad, everyone looks like they are heading for a nap, we all agree it is a good thing it is a really easy bike ride, as it is really hard to bike in this kind of heat. I must say the cute little villages we cycled through were fun, kids returning from school, would be so happy to say hi, stand on the side of the road with their hand out, so we can give them a high five! I don’t know how many hands I clap but made a lot of kids happy. For them we were the entertainment of the day! What was touching was, they were so genuinely happy to see us!All the girls in this groups are going to Seminyak, and me too, too funny! I am heading for the white sand beaches, I was promess a sea breeze there. I only have a few days left, as the last days will be hard working days sitting all days, I really need some fresh breeze on my sticky body. It gets so hot, my keypad does not recognise my skin!I wish I had brought a nice!

Silent day in Bali

Nyepi day is celebrated March 16th 2010. The Balinese calendar has 35 days instead of 30. Nyepi is the day of silence for Hindu followers. Its starts from down on Tuesday, to sunrise on the following day. The entire island is closed down, the airport, the ports and harbor are all closed down as well. No one is allowed on the street or even to turn on the lights for a full 24 hours. No fires are allowed either. Balinese cooked with fires. To enforce these restrictions, Bali traditional police called Pecalang will control the streets. The only exception are hospitals, hotels and public safety facilities. No one is allowed to work except the staff of those institutions. Around 1:00am I heard an airplane taking off, we never hear any planes here, the runaways must have been busy till that time. After that still a few fire crackers and the usual concerto of insects and amphibians! It is funny, I was wondering why the roosters here, are even signing in the middle of the night, and today I read in a book, they get confused by the sounds of frogs and insects and often think it is the morning again!
My big deception was that we weren’t allowed on the streets. I would off love walking in this profound silence. Our hotel even had the doors of the hotel shuts, I didn’t even know we had doors! Our hotel as given us a flashlight for when the authorities shut down the power, but I was told it will be somewhere in the middle of the night, while everyone is asleep. They also organised a nice buffet, usually here everything is a la carte.We must attend between 5 till 6:30pm. The cost is around $18. They didn't abuse of the situation too bad!I don’t know what is going on but the hotel is completely full. I woke up to the phone call of my husband and felt like I was disobeying. I was keeping my voice down. You couldn’t hear a sound coming from the street, it was like we were suspended in time. Only the diner felt different. The restaurant is never full, and I have never seen the hotel fully book, I was wondering how they would seat everyone. Sure enough everyone was seating to whatever chair was available. I was seatted with two gilrs from Switzerland and I felt rude, interrupting their diner as they were eating. So I went to the buffet right away. They spoke a good English and we had some really interesting conversation, and the diner turned out to be pretty good and fun. They have been to different parts of Bali, there is just so much here to see. They spoke highly of Gillie Island, and they stayed on a small island near by, that is usually not visited by tourist. They said they never seen so many crazy people like this in their entire life, apparently they have magic mushroom growing on the island, and everyone is on it! They loved the island and probably had a good time! It sure didn’t sound like Nyepi in the restaurant as matching people with other tables turn out to make everyone having conversations. It was quite loud. Those girls are leaving tomorrow and most of the guest. They couldn’t find a hotel anywhere, so they kept driving till they got to our hotel, many people did the same thing. Starting from one end of the town to the other end, we are at the other end of town, people had to wait last night for the parade to finish before they could cross the town. Can you imagine how peaceful it is, strangely even the birds have quiet down.
The hotel has kept the spa open. I didn’t bother going as I am sure everybody is going to do just that, as there is nothing else to do. I kept working all day in this wonderful silence. You can’t have a better green day, if the airport is shut down, it means thousands of carbon fuel saved. No pollution either as no one is allowed to drive. It is a huge energy saving. The next day is said to be a cleaned and new world, where humans have exhibited their control over themselves and forces of the world. The elderly Balinese usually fast.But fasting is not mandatory, more a personal choice. I tried to fast lunch and couldn’t I was too weak! My hypoglycemia is really starting to bother me, I have to figure out what I am doing differently, I think it is the humidity. It seems like it is also getting hotter and more humid.
I don’t think I will ever get to experience this again, unless I come back to Bali, but I think it is a great idea, we could do the same, without religious belief, simply to show the world Ontario is committed to be green and so are its habitants. And many provinces could follow. We have a green day, but it does not have the impact the silent day here as. Everyone would cry it is not possible, they have made it possible here, and they have more tourist than Toronto could ever dream of, so it is possible. Again, my only disappointment, I would like to feel that silence and walk outside. Next time I will have to be staying somewhere that has a view on the busy streets!

Pengerukan day in Ubud

I had to leave Lovina at 6:00am, and again I didn’t sleep. The German neighbor is gone, but there is a loud noise waking me up in the middle of the night. Sounds like, some animal is in my room. After making sure I wasn’t dreaming, I got up and look for the culprit. I was somewhere in the outdoor bathroom, couldn’t find anything, so I shut the door, but could still hearing it for the rest of the night. We had to leave early because today is Pengerupukan, and at each and every village intersection, they will be brocades. Because, the entire country of Bali is getting ready to celebrate the New Year.
The driver is the owner of Bayu Mantra, he is not too happy he is driving me back, but he’s the one that offer to taxi me. He even asked me for the money two nights before. I didn’t like that, so I told him I didn’t have money, I was going to change money at diner, when Made picks me up. He said no problem I drive you right now at no charge to the exchange shop. At least, he showed up this morning and the drive back is even more beautiful than coming here. The sun rising between the two mountain peak and the beautiful valley, full of garden, the scenery made up for my speechless driver. I can’t ask him too many questions either, often I would ask, what is the name of this town? and he would mumble something in Balinese without answering me! We are coming the same way I came in, except for the end, we seem to have taken a short cut. I think I drove by the town that Sang Made has been telling me about, where it is where the real artisans are, not the commercial stuff in the shops of Ubud. The kind of place, if you shop there, you’ll need a container to go back home, as everything is so beautifully handcraft with rare wood, paintings that are true with their colors and originality. Most of the art in Ubud is now commercial and the same painting over and over. I saw furniture and hand carve head boards for bed, beautiful doors. If ever, my wish comes true and I have a house in Bali one day, this is where I come to furnish the house. I arrived at Tjampuhan at 8:30am, they have kept me the same room as before, I very happy about this, why change if you are happy with something. So I went for breakfast in town and had my first real scramble eggs with cream, they were fluffy and perfect. With the most amazing bacon I ever tasted. I normally don’t eat bacon, as I have remove bacon from my diet, ages ago, even if I love it. The bacon we have at home is full of nitrate, salt and chemicals. The bacon I am tasting today is so succulent, I can’t recall having bacon this good. You can tell, it is smoked naturally and not overly smokes, barely any fat, and cook to perfection. I had to try the tiny sausage in my plate as well. I have remove sausage from my diet as well.This one has no chunky fat, that gets cut between the teeth, the texture is almost creamy, it almost looks like it is made of chicken but pork would be the logical choice, the taste was quite good and quite different. I could taste the Balinese spices in the sausage as well, I have never had a sausage that taste like ginger, it is actually tasty but I bit too fragrant for the first meal of the day. I feel my stomach might need a clean-up from eating in Lovina and order a Turmeric ginger and lime juice. If you’re not awake that wakes you up better than any coffee. My very first latte is very tasty, but I believe it’s a cappuccino I was served, as there is barely any milk. I did a few things in town and return to my room, still too early but they gave me my room before noon. That was nice they broke the rule of check-in after noon, most places are after 2pm. I wanted a shower so bad and I felt dirty from being in Lovina. Althought, there was a hot water tank on the wall of the bathroom, I don’t think it was working. The shower was so cold, and the shower head was spitting more than pouring, I never ever felt completely clean after my shower. I returned to town after having a good shower and a change of clothes. My hair is a mess, and in a pitiful state, my brush won’t even go through it. The salt water is not good for long thick hair. Back in Lovina I couldn’t rinse my hair because of the shower head, I would off been rinsing for hours before I complete the task. I went back to my usual place (Milano), I knew they had something called cream shampoo. I was just praying they are still open, because tomorrow nothing is open, not even the front door of our hotel. I was so happy they were open, and the woman I had was amazing. She does a good wash of the hair in that sick that is such a pleasure to have your head wash, I can’t believe with all the modern and fancy salons we have back home, no one as this comfortable sink. And the bottom of your feet, as a section you pull out and it makes you feel like you are in a lazy-boy or a bed! She applies the cream, which is mostly only avocados, and essential oils and your hair goes under a blow dryer, that sends out steam, not hot air. Before she applies the cream she does a nice massage of the head and the shoulder. After the steam, she does another massage of the head, neck and up to mid back. She also does both arm and heads. I just wish I was in a bed, I can’t hold my head I am so much relax, specially with only a few hours sleep, I could crash right here and never wake up! The hair dresser comes to trim my bangs. I was so hungry they gave me a nice cup of ginger tea with cookies. Total of my bill $12! After I walk to Clear’s café for a nice lunch I better hurry it is close to 4pm, and most of the shops are already close. I was the last customer in. I also order take out for tonight, I am not sure if anything will be open tonight. After a nice lunch I walk to the cross road of the center and still have a bit of time to kill before the OGOH-OGOH starts. It makes no sense to take the shuttle back, by the time I get there, it will be time to come back. So I sat in a very nice Contemporary lounge and order a long Island Ice Tea. When my drinks arrive I understand why it cost $9. They also brought along a nice healthy snack, which I can not even say it is made with, contains peanuts and herb, but I have no clue what the cracker is made of. A fresh cold towel infused with essential oils, which is quite nice after walking all this way under the scorching sun. The towel is so cold, it is so refreshing. I am very comfortable in the cough and I didn’t know but there is already some action and we have the best seat in the house! I recognized the Australian couple that was at the hotel before I leave and they were very nice, they were happy I offer them to seat in the comfortable cough, instead of the bar stool they were sitting in. We had a good time, they are a really nice couple, I think they have been here 8 or 9 times. This time he insisted to spend New Year here (Nyepi) as he feels he has some demons too and needs to start fresh. We all do, and here it really feels like tomorrow is a day, we truly start fresh and a New Year. My drink is so strong and gigantic, after I had to take an iced cappuccino to keep me grounded, I don’t have much alcohol here,, when you do, you always feel its too strong for your little head! I am mostly on water and lime, and if I find a cucumber I sneak some in my bottle, that’s my fuel for the day. I don’t see many people that have drank too much, is a matter of fact, you see none here, even the tourist are pretty low key. Everybody loves the fruit juices here. All the couples around me had ordered either beer of fresh juice. I didn’t feel like a juice because at Clear café, I drank a raw juice, that I knew I would dislike, but that it could help my stomach that is hurting. This place as a few cool designer elements as well, very Japanese. When you are in the bathroom beside the toilet bowl there is a mini water pool filled with colorful Koi fish, the pool is along four stall that are all line up beside the water. The kitchen is high tech. We had a good time, now it is time to walk and go watch the procession. The OGOH-OGOH are giant monsters, and they have been working on these since I have been here. They cover the structure with tarp and use bamboo as scaffold. The core is made with wire than the wire is covered with something that is like rice paper, it probably is, than the paint it and décor it with as much natural things they have. The hairs are from the coconut trees, etc..They are true artwork. As we drove back this morning, I saw some really awesome one, but I couldn’t ask him to stop so I can take a picture. Each town as a procession of them, the further we were from Ubud the smaller the OGOH-OGOH were, when we were close, I knew just by looking at those monsters. So at Pengerupukan all the villages perform an exorcism at the main road cross, which is considered the meeting place of the demons. A Siwa priest (the one that blesses me), addressing the gods, a Buddha priest, addressing the middle world and a Sengguhu priest propitiating the nether world are all in attendance and at night all the demons of Bali are let loose on the roads in a carnival of fantastic monster, the OGOH-OGOH. The OGOH_OGOH of the demons is as relaxed as Nyepi is serious. It took on its present shape some fifteen years ago, when Nyepi was emerging as display of religious power it has become today. Since there had to be demons the Balinese made them, ever more monstrous to be used once during the OGOH-OGOH procession and burned immediately after. To start the year fresh and without demons. Thus on Nyepi day, the world is cleaned and everything start new, human having exhibited their control over themselves and force of the world.
I had a pretty good spot, but somehow, we end up 8 in a small that could barely contained myself. I had my lunch and purse to carry and my backpack. People were pushing because the sea of people in the streets were pushing too, as the OGOH-OGOH were processing, moving forward, than back than sideways, and I might add, this was no easy task, carry by at least 20 or so men, that needed it to coordinate their movement each one, stuck in a square between the bamboo and lifting the weight of the huge monsters, with sometime 3 or so people on it as well. They was even a small monster made by the 5-6 year old going to the Rainbow school, which is a school for foreigners kids, living in Bali, they were also carrying their monster, help by a few parents, but the kids were also wearing the traditional costume of the Balinese. They were so cute all in white and no higher than my suitcase! I saw Rio Helmi who was there to photograph the procession (the man that signed my book) and I hope he puts together a book of these celebration, the monster are truly beautiful and most of the time, made by the teenagers in each town, it requires a high level of imagination and skills. Many have to make a monster with almost nothing, for Ubud sometimes, they have too much money, has tourist were donating money, and you could have your name on the board. One of my favorite one, was Avatar, sitting in the same hunting position as the movie. This reminds me, that I don’t see James Cameron as a complete genius anymore. I had thought he invented the story, which was around beautiful fundamentals of life and respect of our environment. I can’t take away that James Cameron did a wonderful job bringing the story to life and in the theaters, but he did not create the story. Avatar has been a cartoon in Indonesia and I think Japan as well, for a long time. The cartoon also respects the animals, the life and the trees. Also, the tree of Life, Banyan, who is the tree in the movie, is the same sacred tree Indonesia as. I learn from Sang Made it is called the tree of life because the tree never dies. The main trunk might die one day but the tree is still alive as it as all these branches that keeps growing. If you read the blog who I talk about this tree, which I was unable to be capture in one single photo, due o its size and I wasn’t sure if the branch grew from the top down or down to the top. It is actually from the top down. Once the branches reaches the ground, the branch become another trunk and it keeps getting bigger and bigger.
It was nice to see the enthusiast of the Balinese, and very different to see people having such a good time, and no one is drinking no one as even a bottle in their hands. After a procession of at least a dozen of them, I am so hot in the human sea, my feet are killing me from standing on the edge of my spot, I decided to walk back. I actually did it at right time, made my way to the street and after the roads were clear with no one in site. Just before I left, I almost caught a white dove, as it was release from the belly of one of the devil, this one did not fly away. The light structure in front of me made the bird land on a tourist hands, he kindly look after the entire time. Many foreigner were dress for the occasion just like the Balinese, so were so handsome and some looked ridiculous, I guess it’s a matter of doing well or doing with without taste. One man had nice white shirt and an ok Sarung, but he had socks in his sandals, not ankle socks, half sock! Brown sock on very tall legs, black sandals, taupe and green Sarung that were too short as he is so tall, with the scarf that ties the Sarung yellow, and white shirt! He had some kind of scarf on the head but not the real thing. I think if you will wear the traditional Balinese clothes you must also honor it, and respect every single aspect and dress code. For instance, the Sarung look ridiculous in him, because he was so tall, here Sarung have one size, he should off have his custom made, you are not supposed to see so much legs! Another guy, over did it, I had to take a picture because it was quite something, he reminded me, of a cult guru and a cross between a man and a woman! On the other side, there was this beautiful woman wearing the true Balinese clothes, her husband didn’t but it looked good and matched hers well. I wish I was more of a tabloid reader, I would know how she was, she is definitely a model or maybe an actress. With a true beauty, she did not have make up on, her hair were a Barbie blonde but natural, she had a glow of an happy person with a really nice smile. Rarely you see a woman that shines like that. Many shine artificially, not her. Many Balinese were talking to them, so they are known. I also think I saw Julia Roberts, she look at me and I looked at her, we both walked to fast, I could not take a second look, but I am pretty sure it was her. If I am wrong than its her Susie, but why a Susie would try to hide? And I must say not too many people have her lips. As I walk back in the desert streets, firecrackers are starting to crack all over. I am pretty tired, quite the day, quite the week! When I arrive at the room, they have given us a beautiful plate of fruits, not cheap fruits either, Rambutan, Snake skin fruit, which I know how to open now, since Sang Made show me on the trekking, it easy once you know how, otherwise you need a knife. We also have nice oranges. I am just sad Bamboo is not at my door anymore. I really feel like this is a New Year celebration, must be the atmosphere getting to everyone, I wish I had a demon to burn. They do this because they believe and they are right about this, that we all have demons and goods, that we need a balance of both, they strongly believe about Balance in life. We all have negative thoughts, negative feelings, negative energy etc and the positive balances everything. I think I had my demon in my sleep I threw someone over a cliff, it’s just as good as a demon, it was a pass relationship, that was horrible and long time ago, but I guess it represented a demon! I would like to thank the management of Tjampuhan who did all the hard work to explain Pengerupukan and Nyepi in flawless English.

Dolphin adventure

Just as I was starting to have a deep sleep, someone knocks on my door, I knew I had to jump right out of bed, otherwise I would never wake up. I barely slept last night.The walls here are definitely all made of bamboo anywhere you stay! I could hear my neighbor, all night he cough, choke,and an aweful lot of sounds . Actually, it sounds like he has lung cancer, maybe that is why he is so miserable, maybe he is spending some quality time in Bali while he can, I don’t know but it sounded pretty bad, and he smokes like a cheminy. The ear plug didn’t do a thing! When the knock came, I was out of my room in 5 minutes, I had prepared everything. But we are waiting for two more people, Malaysian girls on holiday in Bali. One speaks English the other only Basa. I didn’t know but they can communicate with Indonesians because they speak Basa as well, she said it was like my French and the French from France, different but you get to understand each other. Her friend does not speak a word of English. I said to Made, but how are we going 4 people on a bike, no we walk to the beach my boat is just over there, ah! good! And his boat is really a 1 minute walk; he lives right on the beach. His young wife helps him push the boat into the water, it is a pretty big boat to push. It is dark and quiet, no different if its 6pm or 6am still no breeze. I am sure in the middle of the ocean the winds will refresh us. It’s the same type of boat as the Polynesian uses, a narrow and deep boat, with bamboo floaters on both side, keeping the balance of the boat, so if you stand you cannot tip the boat, this is kind of reassuring as I brought my good camera. When I sit on the wood planks my feet don’t even touch the bottom of the boat, it is narrow and deeper than a regular boat. He does have a motor, because the way the boat is made, the motor works almost horizontally, somehow it’s still has propulsion! It is a slow pace but at least we are making some grounds. We witness the sunrise behind the mountains, even at 6 o’clock am, it is not even slightly chilly, I had brought my towel, in case I need it to keep warm. No need here. For roughly 40 minutes we are just going forward, to my deception we are not the only boat going dolphin seeing, there probably another six or seven boats, same type of embarkations, but we are the lightest, as we are only 4. The boats are making circles when they reach a certain point in the ocean, and now the motor is on throttle, we patiently wait. I am not saying a word, instead I am starting to visualize the dolphins and not too long after, they show up.The bottle nose dolphins make their apparition. Two large school of dolphins, in front of them the Tuna jumping like crazy over the water. The dolphins would swim, play and jump than disappear, than our captain would watch for the tuna to jump and direct the boat towards that direction and not long after the dolphins reappeared! More than once, they came so close I wanted to jump in the water, Made said, you can’t swim here to dangerous, sharks. No problem the dolphins will protect me from sharks, no, no, you can’t swim here. I think they just think you can’t swim anywhere you don’t see the bottom! More than once the dolphins came under our boats, I took hundreds of photos, but it is a hard task you always miss the good shots as they are faster than you. One did a big swirl in front of us. We watch for almost an hour an half, at one point I didn’t want to film or take photos anymore, I just wanted to enjoy their presences, when you are shooting you can’t see them as good. I was so happy, I got overwhelm again, and felt tears of joy dropping down my cheeks. What a wonderful moment, a true natural experience with the most beautiful animal on the planet. I don’t say that because they are cute, because they are truly more intelligent than us, they are kind but when they need to attack to protect themselves they do, they are the only one that can kill the sharks if attack by them. The only enemies they have are the humans. I could talk about dolphins for hours as I am very knowledgeable of the subject. This moment was very special, since I know more about them, I refuse to swim with dolphins in a pool, it is a torture for the dolphins, in the nature they only function by radar, the radar they have is meant to bounced back to them to give them signals, except it is meant to be in the ocean, in a pool, the radar bounced back at them like a hammer on their heads, they live with constant pain, not to mention the lack of freedom, they are such playful animals, it’s a shame we do this to them, just in the name of money again. I used to go anywhere to swim with dolphins, but now, I will not encourage such a cruelty. There is a movie that I wish I had the name with me, so you can go and rent it. Because the Japanese are killing thousand of dolphins every year, this documentary had to be film with special equipment because the Japanese, have a police to watch anyone trying to capture this on film and throw them in jail. The killing is really sickening. The sea is red for a few days. The people that film the documentary had tremendous courage and bravery, and I wish everyone would see this video, because more people would want to do something about it, just like me. There is also, another carnage you can see on internet, just” google” slaughter of the dolphins in Danemark on “you tube”, you can see these students that kill every year,l hundreds of dolphins just for fun as an initiation challenge. They kill all the dolphins for no reasons; the video is live and brutal. It makes you wonder how such a thing still exist in 2010, even so, why no one does anything, how come nobody is trying to stop these students from such a terrorist act! Since the Japanese have been exposed, I no longer buy anything from Japan, and I have not eaten in a Japanese restaurant since. Except for a Miso soup at the JFK airport and some California roll which is not sushi. Until they completely stop the carnage, I will keep boycotting.

I feel so bless, and I am so happy I came here to see the dolphins and my wish came through. It was even better than I expected, as they came so close I could have an eye contact, and they did look at us, we are one of the few boats that the dolphins came so close. They were so close I couldn’t get a good shoot, as I had switch my lens for close up from far away. They were so close, the camera could not focus, just a big blur. I had switch lens, since so many people told me you see them from far away, I thought well at least I will get a good shot from far away! I didn’t try to touch them, I didn’t want to scare them away, what would I’ve given for it! They were so playful and so elegant, they seem to be gliding on the water, effortless. I saw one underneath our boat, that had his belly up and looking at us from underneath, I thought that was pretty cool. Their belly is white. I could off stay here and sit for hours, it was so peaceful and a rare, precious moment. As we return, it is so hot, I leave my feet drag in the water, the water is so good here, really warm even in the very deep. We say goodbye to the dolphins, who are also moving on with their journey. Then we are heading to the snorkeling spot, as we approach the area, we can see the fish underneath the boat, lots of them and plenty of colors. The snorkeling was amazing, as I seen things I have never seen anywhere; a fluorescent blue starfish, the true giant shell that hides a pearl inside, and a few fish, I don’t even know their species name! Now I understand why everyone on the beach was selling pearls, they must be real, I better find out! But sadly, they must be exploiting the abundance of the shells, and one day, we might not find pearls anymore in Lovina, as they seem to be no rules either. Made does not know it, but I have return to the sea, everything he had dive and collect to give me. I know he meant well, but I could not kill something just because its pretty and I should take it home. Than I saw something on top of a rock moving, it was curled up like a snake, I went to get Made to ask, he said no,no, no snake here, than he dives down with just a mask and a tube, as I watch, the” snake” retrieves and as it retrieves, it reveals its beauty, it’s the giant sea shell, probably with a pearl in it! The mollusk opens its jaws wide enough for Made to put something in it, the sea shell is not letting go, I dive down to check it out, the sea shell will not let go and will probably turn that piece of coral into another pearl. It is a beautiful shell, never seen one alive, it is hiding very tight between two big coral rock and no one couldn’t touch it without tools and I hope no one touches it. It is tuck away so tight, you would need to seriously damage the shell to get to it. I am glad I didn’t try to touch it and get my finger stuck in there, the shell is tight lock around the piece of coral Made inserted. 5 or 6 kinds of fish follow me, everywhere I go. Sometime, nibbling on my hands, even ,if I have no more bananas left. The coral here is not impressive and almost colorless, but the fish are amazing, many varieties and so many beautiful and colorful varieties, you rarely see so much diversity in one spot. I saw the entire cast of Nemo’s and more. Many fish I have never seen. The girls are too afraid to swim and stay in the water holding on to the bamboo, still from there they can see a lot. Made brings me back a beautiful red shell, as we climb the boat, the girls drop the shell by accident into the water, so Made went down again to look for it, and he did find it. I asked him if it was alive and he said no, this one really look like it wasn’t, it had some green moss and something that looked like rust. He said when it’s alive, there is something living in it, and you can see it. So we put the shell on the bottom of the boat this time. Few minutes later, one of the girl is screaming saying the shell is walking, and it is. Made grabs it, it’s a funny mean looking crab that has the same legs as a black widow spider, in a burgundy color, same color as the shell, also has antenna’s and the cute eyes of a crab, I couldn’t get a photo because my camera was already put away. I sure wish I had an underwater camera, I could off made stunning photos. The water was clear and so warm. I could off stay there hours. Going back the sun is so hot, I use my towel to protect myself, and even in the water I could feel the heat on the back of my white t-shirt. On the way back, I can’t believe the morning I just had, not too often you have sensational days like this. I will keep this moment for the days life is not so kind and I will vision myself here again. A keepsake forever and I hope more people find moments like this in their life, it is so important. And as I am writing these last few lines, I am reminded that not all moments are good, as they just slaughter a pig in the backyard in front of me, writing about these happy moments, I have to stop because I can’t see, but sure can hear his distress, this is not a normal scream, and as I stand still so does the chickens in the garden here, the hog as a slow death and his trying to hang on to dear life so bad. He is suffering, his cries are unbearable. As I stay still, unable to keep writing, I feel something cold on my legs, it’s a small gecko, even the geckos are different here, they climb on you, but I must say there was a mosquito on my leg, that is why he crawl on me. I didn’t get bite once since I arrived in Bali, at the hotel there is always a natural coil burning in a coconut shell, also they had a natural solutions there. Many resort fumigates their grounds, here in Bali, they just make sure each body of waters has tons of fish. One day I asked why so many fish everywhere, and the answer was mosquito management! As for the poor hog that will be a feast for a few families here. At least here they are humanely raised. Pork is the national dish, suckling pig is famous, and everyone here is getting ready for Nyepi day, Nyepi is not the day they eat, is a matter of fact many will fast that day, and will not speak a word, but the biggest celebrations of the year is tomorrow.
Speaking of Nyepi day, for the first day, I will have to skip a day on the blog. I knew we had to keep silent, and a few more things. But we received notice, that at a certain time, the power will be complety shut off, leaving the hotel (back to Ubud) in the dark. Flashlights will be supplied, and no one is allowed on the street. I had hope to walk just to get a feel for this very unique occasion, to experience silence, but they will be an actual Police patrolling everywhere, to make sure no one brakes that rule. Tomorrow I was going to download the blog about my return to Ubud, and the evening of Nyepi, but they will be no electricity, the entire country is shut down. I will give you more details later about Nyepi. It will be very interesting to read. I really feel like I going through a new year, I can’t say again, because I didn’t really have a New Year this year! In the mean time, let’s see if telepathy can work all the way here. I need everyone to pray for me, that my lap top does not let me down, I still have lots of works to do, it’s been giving me a hard time for over a week, often it will not power up. I think the heat is even getting to my computer! All I need is another 10 days, please don’t let me down.

Bayu Mantra and the hot springs

At Bayu Mantra, breakfast is a snack compare to my palace,back in Ubud!You are allow one cup of coffee, only, here the size of a cup is one of a small cappuccino.Still amazing that for $12 a night breakfast is included. While I waited for the young man taking me to the hot springs, I spoke with a few tourist, and off course the German next to my room, does not even say hello, they are all like that, they only speak to German people. I know he speaks English I heard him talking. But all the other tourist are nice, but they can’t believe I am here only to see the dolphins, well, while I am here, I will see the hot spring, but yes, that is mainly why I made it all this way! They are all worried for me, saying it’s a joke, there is no dolphins here, the only one you are sure to see are the sculptures all over the town. Everyone agreed,and said you only get a glance at dolphins, they are so far away. I am not worry, I had the feeling not to go see the dolphins this morning, as much as I am eager to see them, I have a feeling that I should go see the dolphins tomorrow, not today, that is why I have booked the hot spring and the waterfall. I was a bit shock when the person who is taking me to the excursion showed up in a bike(motorcycle). We are going with a motorcycle? Yes, don’t worry I drive slow, and he hands me a helmet. At least here the helmet is mandatory; in Ubud no one wears one! It’s a good thing I am wearing long shorts otherwise my skin would stick to the leather seat. We get to see the center of Lovina, it didn’t take me long to figure out, my place is quite far from everything, the only thing that is walking distance are the few shops and the rasta place, the rest is at least 3 kilometers away. It is too much, of a long walk, in this kind of weather. What I saw on the beach is even worst on the streets, my nostrils are constantly irritated by putrefaction smells and the river is littered with rubbish, the streets and every empty land. I was so proud to say Bali was a clean country, so I must now adjust my statement to Ubud and its surroundings. I am not surprise the tourist are not rushing here, and at one point there was a lot of potential, 5 stars resorts are along the main road with properties right on the ocean, each one of them, does not have too much activity. Nothing is kept nice, there isn’t one shop inviting enough to go in. Nobody wears the sarung and the cute scarf they roll around their heads. There is no more compounds here, more little house that looks like the ones in India, that is for the nicer one, and the poor ones are like the Haiti shed or mud hut you see everywhere in all third world country. No wondering they are starving, they have pushed away the tourist with the way they do things. I don’t even want to walk here, as everyone will stop to ask me something, do you need a taxi, do you want to by this, do you want to see the hot springs. Anyone here pretends to be a taxi driver, even on a scooter, I don’t think the industry of taxi here, is regulated. You really need to rely on your instinct. I might be sitting on the back of a motorcycle today, but I trust who I am with. There are vineyards all along the shore and on the other side, all the way to the foot of the mountains, so I ask if there is vineyard I can visit, no there is no such a thing. One the side of the roads I see the grapes for sale, they look so good. This is where the Balinese wine comes from! It is a light wine, dry with some blackcurrantscurrants under tone. The perfect wine for a humid climate.
On the way to the hot springs, I ask if we can stop at a market to buy bananas, I am already hungry. I am lucky there is one on the way.I changed my mind once we arrived. The smell was so bad, I had to ask him to go in and buy me some bananas, all I got was two tiny and hard bananas, because no one had change, all I had was .20 cents and that what you get for twenty cents. The road that leads to the hot springs, is either an ally lined up with makeshift warungs (shops) or it is a tiny village with a very narrow road, not sure which one, my guide does not speak good English like Sang Made, so I can’t overwhelm him with too many questions! But the shops are pitiful and the smell of musty clothes is really bad, I would buy a sarung for a dollar as it would stink up my luggage. And one dollar is the advertise price! The hot spring is nice and well done, first nice thing I’ve seen so far. It is old, you can tell. There is three pool, the water is coming out from the mouth of a series of lions sculpture align on the back wall of each pool. The first pool is narrow, more like a lap pool, and shallow, it is the hottest of all three. I was expecting a stronger sulfurous smell, it is actually not bad, and it is a real hot springs there is so much minerals in the water you can see them and the white trim of my bikini is now copper brown! The second pool is the biggest and with up to 2 meters deep, you can really swim in this one. Which I like better, since all three pools have a slimy floor, due to its high minerals contents in a constant hot environment. I stayed for over an hour, did some aerobics in the water and floated around. We are only a few people and most of the time I have the entire place to me! Than the tourist started to come in, time to go and perfect timing, you can only stay so long in hot water! Fresh water shower, as fresh the water can be here, I hope this one is straight from the mountain not a run of from any town around here! I did not brush my teeth with the tap water, this morning; I might be pushing my luck if I did.
The sun is now very hot, I can feel its scorching rays on my skin, but this bike ride turns out to be a good thing, the fresh air is very refreshing to me. I don’t think you can grasp how humid it is here, just from reading my blog, it really feels like an infrared sauna all day. I don’t know what happen to the wind in this part of the world, but there is not even a slight breeze. It is like a dead zone. After the hot springs I asked him to take me to a good restaurant. We went back to the center of Lovina, which is a nice place, you can tell this place was once booming, but is now, in an advance stage of regression. We saw a nice precession of people doing their last offering before Nyepi day, there is some tradition here after all, but far less. We are in a nice restaurant and had a wonderful lunch. Then we are heading for the mountains again, and what a change the fresh air is not so far from the city of Singaraja, which is at the foot of the mountains and the biggest city here. I am so happy to drive thru this fresh air, I feel better already! The fall is a bit of a deception, I did ask to see brochures about the falls but they didn’t have that at the hotel. A tourist town without brochure, is nothing to help business! If I had known I would off skip that and kept working, the fall in the Ayung river is actually about the same size and better, because you can stand underneath! Here it is dangerous, the rocks and pathway are very slippery from the constant mist. The place is full of colorful butterflies,But the path you walk to get to the fall is another tourist trap, and they all beg you to buy from them. They don’t understand you can only own so many sarungs! The walk to the fall is a sad one, you can’t smile at any of them, because they grab your arm and pull you into their small tiny shops. They are probably 20-30 shops, all selling the same thing, over and over! I saw 6 beautiful fighting coqs, and as I am taking photograph of them, I am thinking, here is something interesting to do. I keep hearing about the sacred coq fight, about I go see one?! I asked around and no one seems to know where I could see a coq fight. Here's something Lovina could use to make extra money, allow the tourist to see the coq fights, who has been part of their culture for years.After the fall we go hunting for a snorkel tube, there is no way I will put my mouth on some snorkeling equipment here, all I smell is kerosene not bleach! And back to my hotel to work some more, till 7pm Made picks me up for diner. He is all dress up in his Balinese clothes, wearing the hat and no helmet, I told him he looks much better like that! He laughs. I asked where is my helmet, he said helmet not mandatory when they go to the Temple. Fine with me, I know you are not going far. He drops me off to a nice restaurant on the beach, with a few customers. He will be back after the Temple to pick me up. I ordered the fish Pepe, the dish I learned to cook in Ubud. I had my first bad meal. The banana leaves were not fresh because when they are fresh they stay green even on the grill, the fish was tough (tuna) and not nearly as tasty as the one I made. I made one cat happy, throwing him my fish! I ordered a avocado, pineapple and shrimp salad that also end up in the cats stomach, I did ask if the shrimp salad was cold she said yes. They don’t seem to get it here, that a salad should be cold, instead the shrimp is always hot. Instead of pineapple I have cucumbers, not the combination I expected. The bill was cheap so I did not complained, a glass of wine and two meals $9. I asked my driver what was his name, I have spend the day with him not knowing him name, I should off guest, his name is Made! Sang Made explained to me the way name works here, I kind of get the concept, but I need to get the full picture, One name represents the first, second, or third child, the fourth one as the name of the first one and another short name. Just by someone name here, they can tell if you are the oldest or the youngest, and then the family name that refers to the warrior, the priest or the servant, but I am visual and I need to see a visual example to get this 100%! Just before going for diner we had torrential rain, it was so hard than even under my porch I had to retreat in my room, the water splashing on my computer. By the time I went for diner the roads were already dry. I only brought a pair of short and three dress, if I had know I was going to ride a bike! I will be wearing the same clothes for three days!
I went to bed early, you can only write so long, even the bottom of your feet burns, from sitting to long on a hot floor, it is so humid my right index is starting to peel, from using the directional mouse screen on my computer. It either the humidity or computer contains very toxic substance we don’t know their effects yet, but I have been noticing my index for a few days and can only attribute this to the keypad as my other fingers are fine. I go to bed early tomorrow we must leave at 6;00am to see the dolphins. Made reassures me that I will see dolphins. I couldn’t sleep, that lamentation is going on again, I thought prayers were supposed to be en lighting and soothing to the soul, this sure doesn’t sound like soothing to me! Made had explained to me over lunch, the Muslims and Balinese tolerate each other but don’t like each other, he also said the Muslims here were the soft one. I guess he means there is no terrorist here!
There is something I must say about Bayu Mantra, I have been to 5 stars resorts many time, and the rooms smells like musty and molty, burning your nostrils everytime you walk in the room.Here it is pretty basic, but the room does not have any bad smell, if it as a smell it's one of a dormitory, it is pretty clean, it actually smells better than the Tjampuhan. As the Tjampuhan is the oldest hotel in Ubud.

On the way to Lovina

This morning I leave for Lovina. The hotel is being very kind to me, they have accepted to keep my luggage while I go away for three days. I will be back just in time for Nyepi. I am a bit sad to leave Bamboo behind and feel like a traitor. One night, I had said good night to him, and was in bed when he made this strange meowing like he was being attack by something, I opened the door,he was proud to show me a big mouse he had killed, he was tossing it around like a football ball! I knew a mouse was hanging around as I discovered what the weird noise, I had originally thought was some kind of night bird was in fact a mouse! One night she had the nerve to walk on the patio while I was writing and squeaked at me! I am glad Bamboo made a meal of it, I never heard squeaking out my window since! I left him, a full bowl of food, but I know the staff will take it away and I worry, he was throwing up blood this morning, either the mouse was real bad, or he had starved too much before I met him! I just hope he makes it till I return, as much as he is ugly, he’s been faithful company here, and strangely the cat communicates with me, he really talk to me, and no, it’s not the humidity getting to my head! He knows exactly when I am awake even before I get up, he meows at the door as soon as I open my eyes. He never does before I wake up! When a storm is coming, is behaves a different way. And when I come back to the room, he talks away like a good thing.
Sang Made is on time, as usual, he brings his brother along with him, I suspect two reasons, he wants company for the return and he wants to be able to point and explain things to me as we drive, and that is exactly what he did. Announcing the particularity of a few towns, and answering all the questions a curious woman like me, as! He also plays a serious role of chivalrous gesture, opening my door every time I want to take a photo. I have not seen this kind of thoughtfulness in a long time! And there is plenty of stop on this very scenic road. First, we have to contour the Agung river, the same one I went rafting, since there is no bridge it is about an hour detour just to get on the other side of the river. Then we start climbing up the mountains to only go down again and then up again. The last mountain we climb was very different, no more rice paddies, just gardens of vegetables and flowers. Where are right in the heart of Bali’s garden. All the vegetables and fruits hotels purchase are from this region. A region rich in diversity, and I can see they have some technology, but it still remains a natural way, and an efficient way of preserving the plants. At least from what I see, I would have to investigate more to find out if they use fertilizer and pesticides. I already know, the rice they grow for their own supply, as each family as a plot or more to grow their own rice, contains no chemicals or any sort. But the rice grown for the international market is grown with the help of chemicals as the government commands. With chemicals they get three crops a year instead of the usual two. Going back to this giant garden, amidst this tall and steep mountain,no fancy irrigation system is need it, as this region see’s rain almost every day, when the clouds get above the mountains, the rain comes down. This is all throughout the year not just during the rainy season. Tomatoes, cabbage, beans, lettuce, broccoli, cucumber, hot peppers, peppers are just a few of what I saw. And the view is stunning; everything is grown in terrace just like the rice, giving the mountains a more dramatic look. This is the first fresh air I’ve seen, since I arrived in Bali,we roll down the windows and it is cooler than the air conditioning in the car. I welcome this change of air with great appreciation. I could live here, no problem! The view is a million dollar view all the way to Lovina. You need a good car to come here, without brakes you’re done! Than we enter a beautiful town by a fairly good size lake, with a Temple on it’s shore. Also, across the street another kind of Temple, some monotonous voice is lamenting in a outdoor speaker, Sang Made explains we are now in a region that has Muslims, Muslims pray five times a day, and each and every time, this lamentation is shouted throughout the speakers and loud enough to cover an entire town, I am not sure if its the same prayer, repeated over and over, or a different each time, it always sounds the same. We make a short stop at the Temple by the lake, the scenery is beautiful and for the first time I see beautiful green grass, an d evergreens. The gardens are magnificent, with their giant Datura’s the big white flower that looks like a trumpet. While we quickly visit the ground, a cloud of rain comes down, no worries, Sang Made even though of bringing an umbrella! I ask if where I was going, was also a Muslims area as well, since I was not aware of this, I thought they were more in Java and Jakarta. Yes, there is some here, and as we drive we see more and more mosque.
Before I left, I read a very serious report on what is happening in the world, something most of us are not aware, but the fertility rate is now 1.3 per family in Canada. It used to be 3.5 per family in the 70’s. We are now, among the lowest in all nations side by side with many European countries. On the other side of the spectrum, Muslims are immigrating in all Industrialized countries in the world, Canada, England, United States, Belgium, Australia,etc.. and they have a fertility rate of 5.5 per family, in twenty years they will be more Muslim on the planet than any other kind of nationality, and that is for the entire globe. For the first time ever, the number of Mosque has surpassed the number of churches in the world, the Vatican admits. What is the worrisome, Muslim religion believes that they should only be one religion on the planet and it’s theirs, any other religion should be destroy or eliminated. They have clearly stated that one day, the world will be ruled by Islam. And when it will happen it will be too late for anyone to react.
Since, that report, I am kind of reticent towards Muslims, I have never been prejudice, and I am still not, just reluctant to encounter them. Once you are aware of something, it is different than when you’re not. I shouldn’t ever worry, I might be dead by then, but I worry for my children’s future. Maybe it is a good idea to buy a place in Ubud, so they can go there if ever it happens! Bali has a fertility rate of at least 2.5 per family as everyone I met or talk to here, as minimum two kids, and often three.
We stop so I can eat, my guide and his brother never seems to hungry! I am always hungry, as we stop, torrential rain come down for around 20 minutes, tourist are rushing to where I am so they can have a shelter, it really rains hard here when it does. Not a good idea to be on the road, it’s kind of a blessing, that I was so hungry! When I finish my lunch, so is the rain! Getting to Lovina is a bit of a shock, we are in a very different region, I can tell just by the way things are, we have not even made it to the street where the place I am staying, that a guy on a motorcycle is asking us, if we need a place to stay. And he follows us. He does not have the reassuring look Balinese have, or I should say the Ubud people, have. We are still in Bali, but very few people here wear the traditional clothes, they have punk rock Balinese and Rasta Balinese. It looks like traditions were thrown out the window here. Sang Made, left after making sure everything was fine, and that I get the room I reserved, which I didn’t. I must say for $12 a night, there is nothing wrong with my room, but I am use to my palace, with fresh towels, soap, shampoo, toilet paper, glasses, water, etc. There is not even a bar to hand my towel anywhere in the room! The first thing I have to do, is to go buy toilet paper, soap and water. I cannot expect too much for that price. I must say it has its own charm; I have a little veranda looking at a garden, with chairs and table. I have air conditioning for the first time and an outdoor bathroom again. The garden is full of birds, many species enjoy this garden, I counted at least 6 different kind, and a nest in the decorative palm tree in front of my door, of little brown orange birds with a white head, they have the size of our chickadee. Really this place is a good finding for backpackers! And the more I see, the more I am happy I left my languages behind, as I would look like an extraterrestrial if I had them with me. Here, the only thing they own is a backpack! They all live for under $20 a day. The ocean is a throw stone away. I was so happy to see the Ocean, what a big disappointment I got, when I walk over there. The beach is filthy, you can’t walk, because there is fishing boats all over the beach, and ropes that you have to jump over if ever you decided to swerve around the boats, the sand is black, I knew that, but this sand is very coarse, you need shoes to walk on it, not flip flops. There is so much detritus of all kinds, it is very deceiving. I go into the water, there is more garbage at the bottom of the ocean, right from where I am, in a 5 feet radius, I can see all kinds of things sitting at the bottom of the ocean floor. The water is at a perfect temperature to have a nice dip, still I don’t even want to go in, anymore. Well, for consolation, I can always have diner by the ocean tonight, there is a nice restaurant at the corner, right on the beach, who just received a fresh Marlin today. She proudly showed me the white nice fresh flesh of a Marlin steak. I promise to come back for diner.
After a short nap, I guess I not used to fresh air anymore, I worked for a few hours, than when for diner, just in time to catch the sun set. The place is busy and I have a table right in front of the ocean, there is not a breeze and I am quite surprise, usually on a beach there is always some kind of breeze, here nothing, not even enough to flick the flame of the candle on my table! It is a Rasta place, with the colors of Jamaica all over. A rasta Balinese brings a menu but does not speak a word another rasta is sitting to my left with some young Australian guy, that obviously had smoke one too many, he eyes were red and he could barely talk, so badly I talk he was French, again, I have insulted one more Australian, as he is from Australia! I did talk with a nice couple from Australia, I had not plan to drink anything, but as the conversation went on, and I don’t drink beer, I order a glass of red wine to keep them company. Here, it only comes by the bottle, it took so long for them to bring my wine, I was sure they went somewhere to get it, sure enough, that what they did. I ask how much was the bottle, he said it was special wine 175 000 rupias, I asked if I can take the bottle with me if I don’t drink it all and he said yes. I knew I would not drink more than a glass. He said no problem. I recall seeing a wine price list, and if I am correct it was 150 000 rupias. My fish was good, but that was it. Seeing all these nice vegetables today I was not impress, with the pale overcooked cabbage mixture, served with my fish so I order a salad, in order to get more greens. Comes more cabbage, and for dressing a scoop of Mayonnaise or Miracle Whip. And sure enough when the wine arrived, the special wine is no other than that $7 Balinese wine bottle you find everywhere. Before I left I asked to see the menu, and as I thought it says 150 000 rupias in the menu. Not only did he rip me off, when I paid he said he had no change, he did that to every table. I didn’t say anything, but I had plan to take all my meal here, as it is a step away, now, they will not see me for as long as I stay. Tomorrow first thing in my agenda is to find change. Everywhere I went today, they never had change, rather it was for toilet paper, or water, internet, they didn’t have change. The only place I went that had change, was a store with only two little girls, I looked around to see where is the adult, but it looks like they are tending the store. The oldest one, who looks no older than 7 years old, tell me it’s 4000 rupias. I give her a 10 000 rupias bills, to my amazement she get the key to a drawer, and gives me the exact change. I can’t believe it, I can’t even get my employees to give the change back from the total, a they all rely on the till and have no clue how to do it manually! This little tiny girl knows how no problem, than I ask how old are you, she didn’t speak English, he father is actually just across the street talking with some men, he shows me eight fingers! I told him his daughter is very good! And all I have on me is 50 000 rupias bills which is roughly $5.00 bill and no one has change? The owner of the place I am staying demanded that I pay for all three night s in advance, along with the excursion tomorrow to go to the hot springs. Things are definitely different here. Will see what tomorrow brings!

Trekking in Bali

Yesterday was such a big day that I had to divide the blog in two part. After the blessing I return to my hotel to change clothes to go trekking. I didn’t really have the right shoes for trekking, my puma running shoes are not exactly fit for this type of exercise.
Sang Made parks the car along the road and then we walk down a winding road, and cut into a field. The trek was for hours and not too long after the beginning of the hike I am already starting to my hypoglycemia resurface.I have not had any crisis since I have here, but this is the first time I didn’t have a real breakfast. Throughout the walk we go over rice fields, go up rice paddies, up the mountain and down the valley numerous time. I am happy my guide knows where he is going, because I have lost all sense of directions by now! The trek is even more enjoyable with Sang Made’s knowledge of his jungle. This surprises me, from a man. Right at the beginning, we saw something rare, a giant lizard, which diets consist of rotting dead animals. It is an easy animal to catch, all they do is put food in a bamboo log and cover one end only, the lizard will go into the bamboo, but cannot back up as it only has the ability to go forward. I saw clove tree, tapioca, coffee and also learn the difference in coffee, I had no idea there was a female coffee bean and a male coffee bean, the male is the high prize one for its size. Sang Made explained to me, that here, there is people collecting the excrement of the fox who eats the coffee beans, he likes the red pulp around the coffee bean, and the coffee bean is intact in the stool. They roast the beans. It sells for $3 a cup. I had heard of this very expensive coffee, but from the monkey’s excrement. We saw some fox poop, but it was a different kind of bean. I guess they have different fox here, as they have to climb on the tree, It is more a shrub than a tree. We saw yellow cacao and red cacao (chocolate). He showed me a flower used in cooking to make a type of Sambal, the flower smells very gingery, it is beautiful and very aromatic. He explained the irrigation system for the rice fields, very clever system. I saw the tree that produces Rambutan, the fruit that I go crazy for, the Durian tree, Papaya, Guava, Breadfruit. On the path was that big spider that I have been trying to photograph, but for some unknown reason, in my lens it disappears. To my horror, he takes the spider with his bare hands and let it scrawl on his face. You have to understand, the spider is as big as my hand! It lets the creepy crawling go all over him, he gave me the opportunity to shoot incredible photos, but I begged him to stop I couldn’t take it anymore. Big spiders like that are making me nervous, he says she is inoffensive if you don’t hurt her. We saw the unlucky cow, as they call it here. The cow is always tied underneath a roof and tied to the bamboo structure, the cow never gets to eat in the field. He says they are very well treated, but their purpose is to be sold for beef, and I must say, in the tropics usually when you see cows, they are so thin, you can see their bone structure, every cow I saw as plenty of fat and meat. They bring fresh grass every day. Everything here as a purpose, the grass comes from the weed they pull out of the rice fields. They often take the cow out for a shower and some massage. That’s right, the unlucky cow get’s a spa treatment once in awhile.
They really have everything they need to survive here in the nature. As I started to get really week, he said that we were really close to the place we were stopping for fresh coconut. When we arrive at these peoples house, you can tell they live with very little. Sang Made took me to their backyard, and we went to harvest some snake skin fruits. The fruit grows at the bottom of this shrub, but the shrub is guarding its fruits very well, the leaves are similar to palm tree and full of thorn, and not the same thorn as our rose bushes, big long spike of nearly 4 inches. The fruit is also full of tiny spikes, you rub something on the fruit and it takes the spikes of. I have not taste anything close to this fruit, it is kind of a cross between a pear and an apples, but without the juice. It is dry and chalky, I can tell this fruit is not going to recurred my hypoglycemia crisis, so I ask if they have bananas for sale, and thankfully they did. While I sitting in their compounds, I am wondering where are those coconut we are suppose to eat? Then the old man put his boots on and we follow him. Is he going to climb the palm tree? Yes, he will get us the coconut. I can’t believe, this man older than me, and does not an inch of fat! He chooses a tree with some coconut ripe, therefore the yellow ones. This tree is straight up in the air, a complete vertical ascension for him. I don’t excel at judging distances, but I would say for sure above 40 feet. Then he climbs down with the coconut, holding the stem in his mouth. Only when I had the coconut in my hand that I realize how heavy this must off been in his mouth. Than Sang Made cut a slit of the skin that he uses to make a funnel so we can drink directly from the coconut shell. There is so much water between the both of us, we can’t finish it all. Than he cut the shell in half, I was really surprise to learn that here they never eat the hairy coconut, they only use the hairy kind to make coconut oil. They eat the meat of the yellow coconut. The meat is half the thickness and very different than the hairy coconut. It is a bit slimy and less flavorful, but very nourishing, I feel better already. The lady was very proud to make me a cup of coffee, from her own beans in the back yard that she harvested, roasted and then crushed. I must say, the most flavourful coffee I ever had, without any bitterness or astringency. I was able to drink the strong glass she made me, without milk or sugar and it was truly different. That’s what a coffee should taste like, so good that nothing needs to be added to it. Ten they invite me to see her kitchen, she is making coconut oil. I have been wanting to do this since I am here. Now, I am not sure I could handle doing this in a Balinese kitchen. She stands in her tiny dark kitchen, full of soot everywhere, so it is even darker than normal, she stands beside the fire to stir the hot pot and don’t mind the heat on her feet. I can help asking, I am so confuse about the coconut, I need to understand clearly. So Sang Made went to get an older coconut to explain. It is the same kind of coconut as we just had fresh of the tree, with the small axe, he starts to chop the skin away. He opens the shell and it is full of hairy fiber, he keeps peeling that off and finally gets to the small shell, as we know in North American the hairy coconut. Him too, did not understand at first when tourist would ask him to have hairy coconut what they meant, since here they don’t eat the senior citizen of the coconuts! Until he figured it out, we get coconut all peeled off its protective hairy fiber because it cost too much for shipping. They use the fiber as combustible fuel for their stove. They let the fiber dry in the sun and uses as needed it. No more confusion, it is the same nut, they eat the one that is not fully ripe and drink the water of that one. The older the coconut is the less water it contains and the thicker the meat is. They only use the meat for culinary purpose. They say the older meat is not as healthy as the slimy one. But I am glad I finally understand everything about the coconut now! We return to our trekking, I give the lady 50 000 rupies, which is around $5 for her bananas and fresh snake skin fruits, so took the money out of my hand like if she was afraid I would change my mind, she probably as not seen the color of this bill in a long time. It is a lot of money for them. They have a very simple lifestyle with the bare minimum. Thankfully, coconut is very nutritious, it saved my life, there is no way I would off been able to walk some two more hours without food. This is not your average walk, but hard work, going up steep hills in this kind of humidity is not an easy task. You also need to be agile, jumping over streams, walking on the edge of the rice paddies, sometime no wider than 4 or 6 inches. Every person you meet here, as their teeth dark brown, if they have any, also from chewing the same preparation the priest has to chew every day. At the end, I am really starting to get weak, it is near two o’clock and I haven’t had lunch. The last couple hundred meters, are at least on a paved road. My heels are killing me, I am not sure my knees will last and I have a pretty bad sunburn on my shoulder, face and legs. This was the toughest work out I had to do in a long time, and I taught my Pilates teacher was tough with me! This kind of humidity leaves you, gasping for oxygen. I am sure if I had any toxins left in my body, I have sweat it out today. Sang Made is so thoughtful, when we arrived at the car he pull out of his cooler, fresh clod face towels, infused with essential oils, this could not be more welcome, it is just as good as a cold shower. The towels were kept in his cooler over ice. This made me feel better instantly! Than we stop at a restaurant in his village that does not have a menu, the only serve one dish, which they are famous for, miles around. The restaurant is in a beautiful compound, and this is the fourth generation operating this restaurant. I was given a tour of the kitchen, which was really cool to see, still the traditional cooking with the dirty kitchen but on a bigger scale. They had already prepare the food for tomorrow. Huge pots of everything, they go through a lot of food here. Huge baskets of turmeric, hot peppers, shallots. The dish consist of rice cooked with many ingredients, chicken, a boiled egg, marinated in some kind of liquid, giving the egg a yellow brownish color and a tastier taste. Served with the traditional snake beans salad. It was very tasty. I am learning so much with my guide, he has been working with tourist for over 12 years, since he finished high school, so his English is impeccable, and I have no difficulty understanding what he is saying, as he learned English very young. He also help me understand the banana world! There is more bananas than we know back home. Many trees in the jungle have bananas, but they don’t eat those, they harvest the big nice green leaves, that everyone uses for lining plates and dishes, it is also the same kind used to cooked fish in it. We saw an entire load of the leaves all ready to be sold to the hotels and restaurant; everything was neat and so interesting to see. Even the rope around the pile of neatly fold banana leaves, are made from palm trees. That type of tree is called stones banana, bearing such a name due to its big hard seeds in the middle of the banana. No one eat this kind. There is also another kind of banana, used only for offerings. There is a type of banana here than is green, the inside reveal in sweet and ripe banana, Some green banana are only for cooking, you recognize them by their square shape.
It is close to 4 o’clock and all I can think of is to go for a nap. I am exhausted; this was a big day, worth every penny. I was very fortunate to do site seeing alone, without twenty tourists behind me, you learn so much that way and you can go at your pace. If we were with a group, I would say another hour would off been need it to wait for the people that are in worse shape than me! Sang Made was also in charge of bird watching tours for Alila Ubud, a five star resort, near where I am staying. I was nice to be with someone that can point to the birds and show me in the book what kind it is. The birds here have unique calls and signing. This was a day that will stay with me a long time.